Shangri La Resort & Spa in Oman – A Photo Essay

The Shangri La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa sits in its own private bay a short distance from Muscat. It’s a lovely half an hour drive from the airport, through the quaint city and the beautifully barren mountains, and is a lovely place for a quick weekend getaway.

There are only a handful of top notch hotels in Muscat, including the Ritz Carlton’s Al Bustan Palace and The Chedi, which is better situated for those who want to be closer to the airport and the city centre.The Shangri La itself is split into three hotels,each in their own spectacular bay. I stayed at the the Al Waha hotel, which is the most child friendly, and is linked to the adjoining Al Bandar hotel. The more exclusive (child free) Al Husn perched higher up on a hill, is exclusively for guests of that hotel, and it has its own smaller private beach. (You can, however, have dinner at a couple of the restaurants if you like).

Shangri La Beach Muscat Oman

After the lovely drive, and impressive entrance through a tunnel carved into the mountain, I was a bit disappointed by the lobby at Al Waha which feels a bit tired and dated. I was given a nice room in a quieter part of the hotel overlooking the ocean, and again, it had all I needed and was very comfortable, but I did feel that like the lobby, it could do with a refresh and touch of colour. Fortunately all I was after was a big rest and comfortable room (with free wifi), so personal aesthetics aside, it was perfect.

It rains very little in the Dubai, but for some reason the weekend I travelled, there were serious storms in Dubai, Oman and Saudi, but thankfully the sun did come out again for my second day and I managed to spend the day floating in the ocean and the large pool. Chances are you’ll be far luckier with the weather and there is enough to do in the resort. You can choose to lie at the pool, on the beach or on the lawn at Al Bandar. There is plenty of space to relax and the ocean is calm and inviting. If you have kids, there’s lots to keep them entertained, from the pools and beaches, to tennis courts and the kid’s club. And if you need some pampering as well, there is a Chi Spa that will help you unwind.




There are also plenty of decent places to eat, including poolside bars, a tapas restaurant and Bait Al Bahr, the resort’s signature seafood restaurant on the beach. But if you find yourself there on a stormy weekend like me, then you can also enjoy the room service. It was efficient and the food was good.

So if you’re heading to Muscat for a very luxurious weekend or you don’t have kids, you might prefer The Chedi, which is also closer to the Old City and so easier to get about (or even the Al Husn hotel in this resort). But if you’re after a very comfortable, more affordable weekend getaway in a stunning bay on the beach, the Shangri La is well worth it. If you can drag yourself away from the resort, take a quick trip to the Old City and the Mutrah Souk and you will return home feeling like you’ve had a good break from the city madness.




Muscat Is A Place You Must Visit

We were driving down into Muscat from the Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa, which is a few kilometers along the coast. There had been a huge storm the night before and as we entered the city, my taxi driver slowed and then stopped in the middle of the road. I looked up to see what was going on. There was team of workers shoveling mud and clearing the road, but one worker had put his spade down and was helping an old local man in his shiny white dishdasha across the road. It was so lovely to see and set the warm gentle tone of the city for me.

I had asked the driver to take me to the Sultan’s palace and thought I could walk from there to the Old City. The friendly driver said he would wait for me and take me to the old town rather, because it was further than I thought. Being a bit weary of taxi drivers trying to make a quick buck I first dismissed his offer, but thankfully reconsidered, because it’s a very long way to walk.

Sultan of Oman's Palace in Muscat


We drove past the impressive new parliament building and down to the Sultan’s Palace, flanked by the Al Mirani Fort and the Al Jalali Fort fort that stand proudly on the hilltops. The palace is actually fairly small and not as grand as you might expect. The Sultan doesn’t actually live there, but apparently does stay over from time to time and I suspect he has a bigger palace elsewhere. In such a quaint city with plenty of small whitewashed homes, it makes enough of a statement though, and the new National Museum will soon be opening its doors across the street.

So after the usual photo burst the driver took me around the coast to the old city. As we approached he pointed out the Sultan’s private yacht, and I proudly said it was very beautiful but not quite as big as the ruler of Dubai’s one, but I was just being facetious because obviously I wouldn’t be upset if I was invited onto the Sultan’s yacht would I?

I hopped out on the corniche that runs around the bay, separating the sea from the beautiful old, low-rise buildings. The whole bay looks like a movie set, that’s been flown in and perfectly assembled between the mountains and the sea. Sure there are cars and people milling about, but it’s a sleepy and tranquil place that’s very inviting.

I walked the length of the corniche taking in the scenery and breathing in the fresh sea air. I passed the Old Merchant’s Houses and popped into the Mutrah Souk, but it was the morning after a particularly bad storm and many of the store owners were shoveling mud out of their stores and trying to clean the mud off whatever merchandise they could salvage. Those with more sturdy roofs were open for business as usual. It is a lovely souk though and definitely worth a visit on drier days. The main passageway has a roof over it, and it has a number of smaller side passages all housing the usual range of clothing, furniture and trinket stores, but it’s an inviting and manageable small city souk, unlike some of the sprawling complexes you’ll find in cities like Istanbul.


After my stroll, and a period of people watching from a sidewalk café, I met my taxi driver down the street at the juice store and he took me on an old back road that offered some great views and photo opportunities. Then it was back along the impressive meandering roads through the mountains to the Shangri La. There are of course other areas to see, and there is a Big Bus Hop-On Hop-Off service that will give you a grand tour of the city if you’d like to take it all in. But if you have very limited time (or just want to relax on the beach), the Old City is your best bet for a quick, enjoyable stroll and you only need a couple of hours to look about and perhaps bargain in the souk.



My trip to Oman was only a very brief escape from the bright lights and busy streets of Dubai, but the laid-back vibe and old Arabian coastal ambiance was a fantastic breath of fresh air in more ways than one. This city is definitely worth exploring if you’re looking for a gentler change of pace and even if it’s only for a weekend, you’ll definitely return home feeling refreshed.


The Beautiful Banyan Tree Al Wadi

When it’s 50 degrees Celsius outside, most people get on the first flight out of the country, so in the UAE, summer is low season and you can often get 50% off the best hotels. Which is why we decided to cool off in our very own private pool villa for a birthday night getaway at Banyan Tree Al Wadi, and it was an absolute treat.

Less than an hour’s drive from Dubai, we turned into the desert outside Ras Al Khaimah, and arrived about half an hour before the 3pm check-in. We valet parked and strolled up the long covered walkway to the hotel.The lobby, which is more like a private lounge, was already filled with large local families in abaya and dishdasha, and a few other tourists, mostly couples. The beautiful thing is, it was the first and last we saw of almost everyone once we’d checked in, because we all dispersed to our own private retreat.

After our cold towels and fresh juice, we jumped on a golf cart, and were driven to our private villa. While we wound our way through the dunes, the driver showed us where everything was and assured us that all we needed to do was push the red button in the room to call for a cart to fetch and carry us. In 50 degree heat, I was loving that guy.

Thai Restaurant at Banyan Tree Al Wadi luxury desert resort Ras Al Khaimah

Oryx at Banyan Tree Al Wadi Luxury Desert Resort Ras Al Khaimah

Watering hole at Banyan Tree Al Wadi Luxury Desert Resort Ras Al Khaimah

We passed the watering hole where a few Oryx were relaxing in the shade, and the Thai restaurant that overlooks it, and pulled up outside our villa. Having booked a deluxe pool villa, and not one of the much larger tented pool villas, we expected it to be comfortable but cosy. But then we walked inside and realised just how big it was. Off the entrance hall, to the left, we discovered  a large bathroom, with his and hers basins, huge tub and rain shower, all walled in for privacy. We poked our heads into the small dressing room, then went through into the bedroom, separate living room and study, and outside onto the wooden deck where we found our own private pool. Bliss.

Granted, the villa may not be as big as some penthouses, but at 158 sqm, it has more than enough space for two people to play quite happily. So unless you’re really claustrophobic, there’s no need to go for the much larger tented villa (although it is more private and has a much bigger pool).

As we were shown around the villa, our driver told us that there was of course room service, but that there was a delivery charge of 60 dirhams for every order. We nearly choked, even for a five star hotel that seemed excessive. But it only took another half an hour or so, and we realised why. Once you’re in your villa, bobbing about in the pool, you don’t ever want to leave. They’re smart, those hotel people.

Private luxury pool villa at Banyan Tree Al Wadi Ras Al Khaimah

Villa Bedroom at Banyan Tree Al Wadi Luxury Desert Resort Ras Al Khaimah

Bathroom in villa at Banyan Tree Al Wadi luxury desert resort Ras Al Khaimah

Private Villa Pool at Banyan Tree Al Wadi luxury desert resort Ras Al Khaimah

We unpacked and decided to pop out for a late lunch. We wanted to see more of the resort and try out the restaurants and we weren’t quite ready for the room service delivery charge. So we hit the red button and a golf cart ferried us back to the main hotel building.

We went to Al Waha restaurant (which means oasis in Arabic). Attached to the main building, the décor is simple, but elegant. It has very high ceilings, but unfortunately, it doesn’t have a view. It is where breakfast is served, and its menu is Arabic, along with the ever-popular ‘international cuisine’. There were a few other families having a bite, but I suspect it’s more pleasant at night, when the lights are low and the view doesn’t matter. We ate a couple of sandwiches, took a few pictures, and went straight back to our villa for a swim.

Al Waha Restaurant at Banyan Tree Al Wadi luxury desert resort Ras Al Khaimah

I spent the next two hours bobbing in the pool, watching the odd Oryx saunter by. If I was wound up by city living when I arrived, I was almost purring like a sea lion when I eventually got out sometime around sunset. We hit the magic red button again, and were soon on our way to the stylish Samar Lounge and the rooftop Moon Bar. It was still uncomfortably hot even though the sun had set, so we had a quick walkabout on the roof and if it had been a bit cooler we could’ve sat up there all night. Apparently one couple, who were up there smoking shisha, were immune to the summer heat. We retreated back downstairs to one of the cosy corners in the Samar Lounge and this is where the fact that everyone stays in their own villa really hit home. In the hour or so that we were there, sipping on our refreshing mojitos, nobody else came to the bar. Only as we were leaving, a small group walked into one of the private corner areas, and drew the curtain behind them for privacy. It looked like I had booked out the whole resort out for us. The old romantic that I am.

Samar Lounge Banyan Tree Al Wadi luxury desert resort Ras Al Khaimah

We paid up and were carted off to Safran, the resort’s signature Thai restaurant for dinner. In it’s own building, a fair distance from the main hotel and overlooking the watering hole, it is a far more romantic setting. It seemed a few other couples had the same idea as us, but thankfully the restaurant was big enough, so the other five or six couples (and one rather large family) were placed well apart and we each had our own private space.

The ambience was lovely, the food was authentic and very good and the service was low-key but attentive. I love Thai food, so I had starters, main and dessert. We washed it all down with some wine, and then strolled back to our nearby villa for a late night dip in the pool.

Having seen much of the main resort, we weren’t interested in leaving our villa again until we needed to check out the next day. So we happily arranged a late check-out and placed our breakfast order before nodding off.

The next morning the breakfast arrived as requested at exactly 8am. Two men set up a veritable feast in the living room and quietly retreated. There was far too much food, but I did as much damage as I could and then hit the pool again, where I had two cups of tea while soaking up the morning sun. The rest of the morning was spent eating and swimming and when it came time to leave after lunch, we were slightly disappointed, but so relaxed it didn’t hurt as much as it usually might.

Tea in private pool at Banyan Tree Al Wadi luxury desert resort Ras Al Khaimah

We didn’t get a chance to try out what I believe is a magnificent spa, or try our hand at archery, ride bicycles around the resort or take the shuttle bus to the neighbouring Banyan Tree Ras Al Khaimah Beach Resort. So when, not if, but when we go back to this fantastic resort during the cooler winter months, you can bet it’ll be for more than a night.

Top Tip: Book Al Rimal Deluxe pool villa number 304. I have it on good authority that it’s one of the best in the resort.










15 Reasons I Love Dubai

Having lived in Dubai for almost five years, I know that much like every city I’ve lived in, it has its good and not-so-good sides. But I think it often gets a bad rap that it doesn’t deserve. So I thought I’d reflect on the things I do love about living in this fascinating city.


Aside from the recent cloud seeding that had everyone including the weatherman confused, you can’t argue with more than 300 days of beautiful sunshine a year. Whether I actually spend endless weekends outside or not, I like the fact that it’s sunny and that I can lie at the pool or go to a beach whenever I like. It’s pretty good for my mood too.


The Middle East is so well situated that flying anywhere in the world is far easier than it is from most other regions. And Dubai is so geared for travelling, that popping down to the airport for a quick trip feels as easy as going to the local supermarket.


Along with that, the region has some of the best airlines in the world. Emirates, Etihad and Qatar are all first class airlines and make travelling a pleasure.

Cosmopolitan Crowd

If you’ve never been to Dubai you wouldn’t believe how cosmopolitan the city is. You can go to most dinner parties and everyone around the table will be from a different country, often with parents of different nationalities and a childhood spent in exotic locations. So unless you’re a real introvert, chances are your group of friends is from all over the world, and that in itself makes life in this city fascinating.

Jetty Lounge beach bar One & Only Royal Mirage hotel Dubai UAE

Coastal Vibe

The city of Dubai has literally risen from the desert over the past few years. It is now more city than sleepy fishing village or pearl diving post. Yet somehow, when you live here, it still has that laid-back coastal vibe to it. Once you descend from the tower blocks, you feel like you’re living in a (very sophisticated) coastal town. It’s not too small, or too big (yet).

Beaches & Yachts

Keeping with that sophisticated coastal town vibe, most residents in this city like to do things in style. So along with a few stunning beach bars, there are also plenty of great beach clubs and more than a handful of companies that rent out private yachts. So spending a stylish day out in the sun is very easy and does make weekends that much more enjoyable.

Sitting on the yacht in marina


Overall Dubai is a pretty safe place to live and raise children. And relative to most other countries in the region, it’s way more stable. Just ask the millions of regional expats that live here. So when it comes to planning a family that makes a big difference.

Dubai’s Ruler

Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum is undoubtedly a visionary leader and very passionate about wanting the best for his people. It’s hard to fault that. He’s also pretty cool. He drives himself around, is genuinely liked and respected by locals and expats alike. And somehow he still finds time to take part in desert horse races. I don’t see many other leaders doing that.

Open Space

The desert is obviously a beautiful part of Dubai, and being able to simply drive into it and camp is a real luxury for people. But just having lots of open space is a luxury too. The city doesn’t feel overcrowded or overwhelming, and that helps with its relaxed vibe.

Sun setting in the desert in Dubai UAE

No Tax

What’s not to like about this one? More money in my pocket means more travel.

Signature Restaurants

OK it isn’t London, New York or Paris, but slowly the city is developing a great foodie scene. The Michelin Star chefs all like to open signature restaurants here, and some homegrown stars are beginning to emerge. So we’re starting to get a taste of the best from all over the world, which isn’t bad for a small city in the desert. To top it off, Zuma and Le Petit Maison have recently been ranked in the world’s top 100 restaurants for the second year running.

Dream Cars

Luxury cars are dime a dozen here. Every second one is a Rolls, Bentley, Ferrari or some other customised marque. It does make for pretty viewing, but the good thing is that overall, cars are comparatively affordable here and filling the tank is ridiculously cheap. That means you’re more likely to upgrade to the luxury car you’ve always wanted.

Bentley car at polo game Dubai polo club

Luxury Shopping

Dubai is a shopping mecca. It has the world’s biggest mall, plans for an even bigger one, and dozens of other designer stores and souks. The city wants the best, so they encourage the world’s best stores and top designers to open up here. And there’s plenty of cool homegrown talent that’s starting to emerge too.

Snow Skiing

Dubai has some quirky places, like Ski Dubai where you can snow ski any time of year. Yes it’s bizarre, but that’s what makes it amazing. And it’s a pretty cool place to practice skiing or snowboarding too.

Indoor snow ski slope Mall of the Emirates Dubai UAE

Thinking Big

I love the fact that Dubai’s leaders think big. Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building (for now) and Palm Jumeirah are engineering marvels, and are very cool too. I love the idea that anything is possible here. It’s a much better mindset than the negativity you often hear in other cities.

Final Word

As I said, every city has its good and its bad, and you will find something to moan about wherever you live. But I know I’m not alone in loving Dubai. There are a few million expats living here, and a fair bunch of them think the same way as I do. So if you had any preconceived ideas about the city, maybe you should put them aside for now, and come and take a look for yourself. It’s a great place.

The Ultimate Luxury Guide To Istanbul

I must be one of the only people who didn’t love Istanbul the first time I visited. Maybe it was the language barrier, maybe it was my frame of mind, maybe because it was winter. Or maybe it’s because I was mostly on my own. I don’t know. I liked it, but I didn’t love it. I’ve now been back several times in the past couple of years, and it’s safe to say, it’s now won me over.

What’s not to love really? It straddles two continents, Europe and Asia, and it served as the capital of Roman, Byzantine, Latin & Ottoman empires. The skyline is punctuated with minarets and church steeples, and the city is filled with mosques that used to be churches and churches that were once mosques. So naturally, there’s no shortage of historical and cultural sights to visit and that makes it a fascinating city. Fortunately there’s also no shortage of luxury activities that will keep you going back once you’ve seen all the big attractions.

Istanbul Turkey skyline view over bsphorous with minarets and church steeples

At The Airport


Catching a taxi is pretty easy, but English may be a problem, so I advise you write down the address and show it to the driver when you hop in. The drive into Istanbul from Ataturk International Airport can be a nightmare if you arrive around rush hour. Do your best to avoid it or you’ll be sitting in bumper to bumper traffic for more than an hour. Like airport taxis in many cities, the drivers also have a few tricks up their sleeve to take you the wrong way. So as a rough guide, a taxi from Ataturk (the main airport) should cost you about:

40 TL (Turkish Lira) – To Sultanahmet.

50 TL – To Taksim.

If you’re flying into Sahiba Gokcen Airport it is much more expensive and should cost about:

90 TL – To Sultanahmet

78 TL – To Taksim

I have heard plenty of bad stories about the taxi drivers, but can honestly say that, English aside, I have usually had good experiences around the city.

Where You Should Stay

I like to base myself somewhere near the Bosphorous, either on it, or on the hills just above, because there’s a magnificent view and the skyline of steeples and minarets really makes you feel you’ve gone back in time and reminds you just how exotic Istanbul really is.  Personally, I like the areas around Nisantasi, Besiktas and Ortakoy best.


There are literally thousands of hotels in Istanbul, so it’s a personal choice about which area you’d like to stay in and what style of hotel you like, but these are all great choices.

Kempinski Ciragan Palace – Çırağan Palace Kempinski is on the European shores of the Bosphorus. Note, the hotel has regular luxury hotel rooms and the ultra-luxurious palace suites.

Swisshotel Besiktas – It’s a huge hotel, with fantastic views over the city and Bosphorous. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World and listed on the 2011 Conde Nast Traveler Gold List.

Swissotel magnificent view over Bosphorous Istanbul Turkey

W hotel – The W Istanbul Hotel is the center of the historic Akaretler Row Houses, an upscale neighborhood filled with restaurants, cafes, and design & art galleries. (The neon purple décor does make it feel a bit like Vegas though).

Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorous – A smaller, stunning hotel in a converted Ottoman palace, next door to Kempinski on the Bosphorous. I love sitting on the terrace.

Four Seasons Bosphorous Hotel Istanbul

Boutique Hotels

Sofa Hotel Nisantasi – A hip hotel in the hippest area of Istanbul, the trendy Nisantasi neighbourhood, near all the boutique stores and restaurants.

The House Hotel – A deluxe hotel in Ortakoy, with magnificent views of the Bosphorus. My favourite waterside restaurant is The House Café downstairs.

TomTom Suites – Designer hotel and member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World.

Witt Istanbul – A small luxury hotel in less touristy Beyouglu.

Luxury Apartments

If hotels aren’t really your thing, you’ll be very comfortable in these designer apartments.

4 Floors

The Best Places To Eat

Aside from the famous well-known international import, Zuma, there are many, many fine eateries in this city. Too many to cover, but these will all keep you happy.

Lucca's Restaurant Bebek Istanbul Turkey

Restaurants & Cafes

Mikla –Fine dining perched high above the city on the rooftop of the Marmara Pera Hotel.

Mangerie – On the top of a building in trendy Bebek. Beautiful panoramic views of the Bosphorous and filled with cool crowd.

Ciya Sofrasi –Tucked away on a vibrant pedestrian street in Kadikoy. A very popular authentic and affordable Turkish restaurant.

Lucca ’s – By day, Lucca’s in Bebek is a chilled out casual restaurant. night, one of the hottest bars in town, with loud cranking music, filled with the fashionable and famous.

Lucca's Restaurant in Bebek Istanbul Turkey

White Mill CafeA double-story cafe with beautiful outdoor terrace and dining area. It is one of the most popular cafes in Cihangir, with a very lively, popular bar at night.

Münferit Equal parts restaurant, bar and lounge, located around the corner from The House Hotel in Galatasaray. A restaurant by day, it becomes one of Istanbul’s chicest bars at night.

Lacivert –Housed in a beautiful Ottoman mansion, used in several Turkish films. Catch a ferry over and dine overlooking the Bosphorous.

The House Café A popular cafe chain. The Ortakoy one is my favourite with its outdoor terrace on the Bosphorous. Have breakfast on a Sunday then stroll around the Ortakoy markets.

Ferry on the Bosphorous from House Cafe Istanbul Turkey

Street Food You Have To Try

All the fancy restaurants and cafes aside, you should definitely tuck into the street food in Turkey. Try some of these favourites:

Simit – (Circular bread, like a giant pretzel, often sold from street vendor carts).

Wet Hamburgers – (Special mini meatball burgers, with tomato sauce which is why it’s called a wet burger).

Doner Bambi Café is your best bet. (Yes I know, what a name).

Bambi Cafe Istanbul Turkey

Lahmacun – (Like a thin elongated pizza, with meat or veggie toppings).

Where To Have Sundowners (And Party Afterwards)

You will notice that most of the glamorous spots have views of the city and the Bosphorous as a big draw. And with good reason, I love those views. Of course, it’s impossible to have a complete list of all places in a city like Istanbul, but you won’t go wrong with these stylish venues.

Party Streets

Nevizade Sokak – This tiny street and surrounding area is one of your safest bets for a great night out in Istanbul. It’s packed full of restaurants and bars.

Asmalımescit – An alternative to Nevizade Sokak, Also filled with bars and  restaurants, it is a favourite for weekend revelers.

Bars & Clubs

Reina – No trip is complete without a trip to Reina. If you’re staying at nearby Kempinski Ciragan Palace, you can take a speedboat there in summer. This ultra-popular venue has several bars, restaurants (five actually) and dance floor. And it often plays host to international celebrities.

Reina restaurant and club night shot in Istanbul Turkey

Angelique – One of the trendiest dining and nightlife spots in Istanbul. You’ll find the cool crowd here sipping cocktails or partying in the swanky club. It’s in a multi-story waterfront mansion, so in summer, you’ll often see celebrities pulling up to the club on their yachts and mooring outside. (It’s also right near one of my favourite cafes – The House Café on the Bosphorous).

Mikla– The outdoor rooftop cocktail bar is one of the top cocktail spots in the city, with 360° views overlooking Istanbul. It is relatively pricey, but the great cocktails and incredible views are worth it.

Nu Teras – One of the coolest rooftop nightclubs in town. It fills up with the fashionable crowd who party on the cool Plexiglas dance floor, bathed in blue light to simulate a swimming pool. Oh and obviously the panoramic views aren’t too shabby either.

Ulus 29 – One of Istanbul’s premier restaurant-bar-clubs,that attracts A-list celebrities and politicians. Since 1993 it has drawn the well-heeled, and just plain rich, to its fine dining restaurant on the hilltop, with magnificent views over the Bosphorous. The elegant and vibey terrace bar and the club are next to the restaurant.

Nublu A stone’s throw from the Galata Tower in Karaköy, Nublu Istanbul (counterpart to the New York club) is one of the best spots to while away the early hours of the morning while sipping on rakı and enjoying live bands and international DJs.

Vogue Istanbul – Situated on the top of the Beşiktaş Plaza, the restaurant has stunning views of the Bosphorus and the Asian side of town from three terraces. Two levels arepart of the restaurant, and one is devoted to an excellent bar that offers over 200 wines and an extensive cigar list.

Chilai – Bebek’s new hot spot Chilai offers a different entertainment option on every floor, from bistro and lounge to restaurant, art gallery and even a Godiva chocolate shop. Obviously, it too has a beautiful view of the Bosphorus.

Chilai Bar and restaurant at night Istanbul Turkey

Sortie – A large, 3500sqm elegant venue on the Bosphorus, with yet another great view of Istanbul. It has a range of good restaurants, bars and a club to party in all night. Open until 4am.

Leb-i-deraya – It was one of the first rooftop bars and restaurants (5.Kat was the pioneer and is still very popular). It’s a chic venue with a small terrace and fantastic views, for those who want to see and be seen.

360 Istanbul – A multi award winning 360istanbul is set in a penthouse perched on a 19th century apartment building overlooking the old embassy row in Beyoglu. Open for lunch and dinner with a twist on Turkish mezze, it turns into a club on weekends.

And yes, it has a 360 degree view.


Most of Istanbul’s main historical attractions including Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace are on the European side of the Bosphorous. A trip to the Asian or Anatolian side makes a nice change, but if you have limited time, there’s more than enough to keep you busy on the European side. And although I usually prefer to walk one end of a city to another, I think an open top bus tour is a very wise and cost-effective choice in Istanbul.

It’s a huge city, spread across rolling hills, so the bus helps you get your bearings, cover a lot of ground and hop on and off to see the main sites. After that, you can always pick the places you want to see again.

The Main Attractions

The Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Mosque)

Across a small park from Ayasofya is the early 17th-century Blue Mosque. What’s so blue about the Blue Mosque? Not much on the outside. Istanbul’s imperial Mosque of Sultan Ahmet I (Sultan Ahmet Camii) is called the Blue Mosque because of thousands of blue interior tiles.

It is one of Istanbul’s top attractions but it’s also a working mosque. So it’s closed to non-worshippers for a half hour or so during the five daily prayers and may be closed for a longer time from midday on Friday, the Muslim holy day. Once you’ve visited the main mosque, head for the building the size of a small mosque on the corner of the complex. This houses the tomb of Sultan Ahmed I, the man who gave his name to both the mosque and the neighbourhood.

Blue Mosque Istanbul Turkey

Süleymaniye Mosque

Commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent in 1557, the mosque is actually in the Süleymaniye district and one of renowned Ottoman architect Sinan’s masterpieces. It’s been restored to its original splendour, and is generally regarded as the finest of the 42 surviving mosques he designed for Istanbul.

The Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world (around since 1461). With 61 covered streets and over 3,000 shops, it’s a big and busy place.

It is well known for its jewellery, hand-painted ceramics, carpets, embroideries, spices and antique shops. Many of the stalls in the bazaar are grouped by type of goods, with special areas for leather or gold jewellery.

The whole complex also houses two mosques, four fountains, two hamams, and several cafés and restaurants. Sit in one of the cafés and do some people watching. Or haggle with the store owners.

Grand Bazaar Istanbul Turkey

Topkapi Palace

At the heart of the vast Ottoman Empire, the Topkapi Palace, was home to the sultans for nearly 400 years. The sultan lived in Topkapi together with hundreds of concubines that made up his (in)famous harem. Built on the acropolis, the site of the first settlement in Istanbul, it has an amazing view of the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara. Unsurprisingly, the harem is still the mot popular area to visit.

Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya)

This building is to me, everything that’s fascinating about Istanbul. From 360 until 1453, it was an eastern orthodox cathedral and seat of the Patriarchate of Constantinople, but between 1204 and 1261, it was converted to a Roman Catholic cathedral and then a mosque from 1453 until 1931. It opened as a museum in 1935.

It is considered one of the best examples of Byzantine architecture and it remained the world’s largest cathedral for nearly a thousand years thereafter, until Seville Cathedral was finished in 1520.

Galata Tower

Galata Tower, a medieval stone tower, has dominated Beyoğlu’s skyline since 1348 and still offers some of the best panoramic views of the city.

Originally named the Tower of Christ, it was the highpoint in the city walls of the Genoese colony called Galata. Most of the walls are long gone, but the impressive tower has survived.

Camlica Hill (Büyük Çamlica)

If you feel the need to escape the bustling city, or you just want some fresh air, head for Camlica Hill. A hilltop park, locals flock there to relax in the tea gardens and restaurants. The view is spectacular and you’ll be able to take in the minaret-filled skyline of Old İstanbul, as well as the Bosphorus winding its way to the Black Sea.

Camlica is split into two hills: Küçük Çamlica (Little Pine Hill) and Büyük Çamlica (Big Pine Hill). Büyük Çamlica is the highest point in Istanbul at 267m above sea level. Büyük Çamlica offers the best views, though Küçük Çamlica, with fewer visitors and lovely gardens, forests and walking trails, is the more peaceful of the two.

Cisterns of Sunken Palace

Finally, the eerie underground cisterns of the Sunken Palace (Yerebatan Sarayi) is an impressive 9,700 sqm underground cavern with over 360 illuminated marble columns.

It’s the largest of hundreds of cisterns that lie beneath the city, and offers a glimpse into the complicated water system, built in the sixth century and then forgotten for centuries, that once brought drinking water into Istanbul.

Basilica Cistern Istanbul Turkey

Day Trip

Prince’s Islands

There are nine small islands about 20km southeast of Istanbul called the Prince’s Islands. A 90 minute ferry ride from the city’s European side, they were once the place of exile for misbehaving royals (and disgraced Soviet leader Leon Trotsky). These days they’re popular holiday spots for Turkey’s wealthy elite.

Buyukada Island is the largest of the nine Princes’ Islands and it has the ambience of a bygone era with all its Ottoman era mansions. No private motor vehicles are allowed, so everyone walks, rides bicycles, or takes horse-drawn carriages.

It is a full day trip, but the ferry ride alone gives you a great view of Istanbul’s famous landmarks and skyline. On the island, you can visit the beaches, a 6th century monastery, a 19th century mosque, and have lunch at one of the restaurants in the small harbour.

Horse drawn carriage Prince's Islands Istanbul Turkey

Note: The island is packed on weekends in July and August, so rather plan a visit during the week. If you want a couple of days peace and quiet, you can stay on the island. A good choice is Naya Istanbul.

Shop ‘Till You Drop

Istikal Cadessi

One of the most famous avenues in Istanbul, sees three million visitors a day in peak season. Located in the historic Beyoglu (Pera) district, it begins at Taksim Square, the hub of modern Istanbul. So start at the top and take a stroll past shops, cafes, consulates, restaurants, galleries, and cinemas, but be sure to look out for the trams. Then have a long, lazy lunch at a restaurant in the famous fish market Balik Pazari, a side alley off the main avenue.

Istikal Caddesi Tram Istanbul Turkey


This isn’t a shopping center, it’s actually a district with 4 main avenues: Teşvikiye Avenue, Valikonağı Avenue, Abdi İpekçi Avenue and Rumeli Avenue. These avenues are a fashion hub, with high end boutiques & galleries frequented by those in search of sophisticated goodies.

Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, with 61 covered streets and over 3,000 shops.

It is well known for its jewellery, hand-painted ceramics, carpets, embroideries, spices and antique shops. Many of the stalls in the bazaar are grouped by type of goods, with special areas for leather or gold jewellery.  So get your friendly haggling skills out, start at 50% off and work your way up to a deal. Monday to Saturday 9:00 – 19:00. Closed Sundays and public holidays.

Bağdat Avenue

On the Asian side of the city and roughly parallel to the shore of the Marmara Sea, Bağdat Avenue is a famous and very popular 14 km long high street, filled with stores, bars and restaurants in an upmarket area. It’s a good half-day trip on its own.


Malls are a relatively new concept in Istanbul. But there are a few big, glamorous ones. So if you really want to head to a mall, these are the more upmarket ones where you’ll find everything you’re after. Note: Malls are usually open 10am-10pm.

Istinye park

It has a variety of outdoor and glass roofed indoor sections, like a a green central park, fashion district, a kids’ entertainment center and 12 movie theatres.


A four-storey shopping center in the financial district of Levent. It has around 160 stores, including top Turkish brands, along with gourmet restaurants, cafes and movie theatres.


City’s is a shopping centre that at least blends in with its historical surroundings. In the heart of the fashion district, it is described as a Lifestyle Centre and is filled with stores, cafes and restaurants.

City Mall Nisantasi Istanbul


Unlike shopping malls, markets are an old tradition stemming from the Ottoman era, and every week in Istanbul more than 200 of them set up shop. Istanbul is one of those cities where shopping at markets just feels right, so here’s a list of the better or more popular ones.

Fatih MarketFatih district is located in the historical part of Istanbul, and the market is the oldest and biggest market in the city. Locals refer to it as Çarşamba Pazarı, because Çarşamba (Wednesday) is the market day. Open 5am and 9pm.

Yeşilköy Market — Another popular Wednesday market. It is in Yeşilköy (literally translates as ‘green village’), an area known for its relatively green, upmarket surroundings.

Beşiktaş Market — A smaller scale Saturday market with ‘only’ 400 stalls. Beşiktaş pazarı offers most products you’ll find elsewhere like shoes, bags, unusual jewellery and home textiles. But the focus is definitely on clothing.

Fish seller at Besiktas market Istanbul Turkey

Ulus MarketUlus pazarı was known as sosyete pazarı, or society market. Simply because of the variety on display of both fake and real brand products.

Kadıköy — Another very large traditional market that operates on Tuesdays and Fridays in Kadıköy, on the Asian side of Istanbul.

What to buy: Leather goods, Turkish delight and unusual handmade jewellery are always popular choices. But also make sure to buy yourself a Nazar Boncuk, the ubiquitous Turkish ‘evil eye’ charm. It is believed to ward off harm or the ‘evil eye’, reflecting it back to the other person.

Pamper Yourself (Sort Of)

Strangely, I still haven’t worked up the courage to visit one. I’ve never quite got used to the idea of being flogged like a dead horse by a big sweaty man while I lie on a concrete slab surrounded by others.


If you are braver than me, there are several magnificent steamy Ottoman bathhouses to choose from in the city. These include the Çemberlitaş, Cağaloğlu, Galatasaray and Sülemaniye baths, and the spectacular 16th-century Ayasofa Hurrem Sultan Hamam right in Sultanahmet Square.

Kempinski Ciragan Palace

And if you prefer your bathing and flogging in private (I think that might be me), then head for the spa and hamam at the Kempinski Ciragan Palace. You will be pampered in a far more luxurious, private, low-lit marble room. And you can do it on your own or with your partner if you’re keen.

Note: This is a great article on what you can expect when you visit a Turkish bath or  hamam.

Local’s Tip

You’ll need to leave Istanbul central to find beaches, but head for Galatasary Adasi for their pool. An island n the middle of the Bosphorous, Suada Istanbul offers a unique experience. It is essentially a floating club in the Boshporus with an Olympic sized swimming pool, where the beautiful people sun themselves, sip world-class cocktails and nibble on the finest sushi.

The Final Word

Istanbul will be as amazing or average as you make it. History and culture buffs will never want to leave, and those who love a good summer party will want to return again and again.

One word of caution: Although it is improving, I still find it hard to communicate, because English is not widely spoken outside of the main tourist hotels and bars. It reminds me of Russia in that respect, (which is another story entirely) so either brush up on your Turkish or if you can, I recommend going with a friend who speaks Turkish. This will open up a whole new world to you. If you can’t, don’t worry, just visit the places I have mentioned and you’ll have an incredible time.

Be sure to also read my comprehensive Istanbul City Guide to make planning your trip much easier.



Some pics courtesy,,

Why sun tanning is so much better on a private yacht

I have to say that sun tanning on the deck of a luxury yacht somehow feels better than lying on a pool deck. And more glamorous. Which is another reason I’m happy to live in Dubai. The water is almost always calm, the sun always shines, and there are plenty of yacht rental companies, so heading out for a quick party afternoon is easy.


The Yacht

Which is exactly what we did when a friend decided to throw a surprise birthday party for her boyfriend. We hired a 53 foot yacht between twelve of us, loaded up with food and booze and threw a big birthday bash on the water.

A 50 footer is big enough for about ten to fifteen people and perfect for an afternoon. We could’ve gone for a 70 or 85 footer, or something much fancier, maybe with a helicopter? You can rent whatever you want. And if you’d like to cruise up the coast for a couple of days, no problem. Maybe next time.

Personally I think I would still stick with less people, even on a bigger boat. You only want people on board that are comfortable with each other and are good fun, because it’s a long swim home if you’re unhappy. Luckily we had a great bunch on board, and the twelve of us were just fine with our triple level 50 footer, complete with aircon cabin, skipper and three other deck hands who were happy to accommodate us, and the chaos.

Fun In The Sun

When we got to the marina, we had to make a call to get through security, but after that it was all good. We hopped into a nicely furnished aircon cabin to set out balloons, streamers and the rest of the usual party paraphernalia. By the time birthday boy arrived, it was a fully-decked party boat.

People tanning on the front of a boat leaving the marina

We pumped up the music and set out. It’s a long, slow journey through Dubai Marina, past all the apartments and out to the ocean. But it gives you to time to get a drink or two in and relax. We had hardly started moving when the champagne was popped, the girls were in the bikinis and everyone was spread out on the front of the boat tanning.

We travelled up the coast, past all the suburbs and it was great to get a fresh view of Dubai, passing the Burj Al Arab hotel and all the private mansions on the shoreline. We headed for a small island just off Jumeirah. It’s literally a big sandy patch that everyone moors their boat off. It’s a safe, protected area for swimming, so that’s where we stopped for a couple of hours to swim and have lunch.  The water was crystal clear and so damn refreshing I stayed in bobbing about for ever while the others kept throwing themselves off the higher decks.

Looking back over boat's wake to Dubai skyline

BBQ And Bubbly

If you’re going to hire a bigger boat you can also arrange a chef, but we just brought cooler boxes full of food, wine, bubbly and vodka and the guys hooked up an electric BBQ so we could grill on the back deck. It was awesome.

We ate lunch, drank, swam, drank some more and just before sunset we headed back to the marina. But on the way back, we went into deeper water, and sailed all the way around Palm Jumeirah (that big famous man-made island) past the Atlantis Hotel at the head. It’s an impressive island.

Group tanning on yacht in front of Burj Al Arab Dubai

We also passed one of Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum’s yachts on the way in. (He is the ruler of Dubai if you didn’t know). It was one of his baby yachts, but it still had place for a helicopter. Like I said, maybe next time.

Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum's luxury yacht

When we entered the marina, it was like we’d joined a flotilla as loads of other yachts headed back as well. By the time we docked, our boat looked like it had crashed through a party accessory shop. The staff said they didn’t mind (I’m guessing they’re used to a boat load of hooligans). And as the bigger booze cruise boats headed out for sunset, I convinced myself this should become a monthly day out. Like all good intentions it probably won’t happen, but at least I know the opportunity to tan and BBQ at sea is always there.


The Ultimate Guide To Dubai

There are so many crazy superlatives used to describe Dubai, but many people still see it as one giant glitzy air-conditioned shopping mall in the desert. Nothing could be further from the truth. In only a couple of decades Dubai has become a five star cosmopolitan city that offers more than enough for the perfect break. (And I have to say, living here isn’t too bad either).

It’s easy for me to have fun because I’ve been here a few years, but what about coming here on holiday? Worry no more, I’ve put together this comprehensive list to help make sure you have the most luxurious, fun time of your life. So without further ado, let’s get stuck in.

Fog in Dubai

Who To Fly With

Your holiday starts before you even leave home. You might want to consider flying in on either Emirates, direct to the impressive Dubai airport or on Etihad, landing at the smaller but very efficient Abu Dhabi airport. They are first class airlines, usually offer very tempting deals for inbound tourists and if you need a visa, they will arrange it for you.

VIP Service

If it’s your first time to the UAE or even the region, and you’re a bit nervous, or you just want to race through customs and get the party started, book the Marhaba service. It’s a VIP fast track system that will have a person meeting you before customs and whipping you through it in about 20 minutes without any fuss, at any time of the day.

Duty Free

Once you’ve grabbed your bags, the first thing you need to do is load up on alcohol at Duty Free. You can’t casually buy alcohol in supermarkets or liquor stores. They do exist, but only for non-Muslim residents, and you need to have a liquor licence. It’s also much more expensive. Don’t worry though, you’ll meet more than enough people willing to help you around that and there are enough bars to top up in.

Find Your Ride

Pass through Nothing to Declare and you can arrange a car or a limo at one of the counters, or arrange one before you even arrive, through Dubai Exotic Limo or Dubai Stretch Limousine.

Or better yet, rent a convertible sports car to cruise through the city from Park Lane Rental or VIP Digits.

Otherwise you can always catch a taxi, they’re cheap, reliable and efficient. Walk out the front doors and turn left, you’ll find a large, well organised taxi stand. (The pink taxis are for women only by the way).

Where To Stay

Where you stay all depends on your budget of course, but the beauty of Dubai hotels is that most are new, modern and offer good room sizes (European closets they are not).  You’ll want to be close to the action, which isn’t hard because Dubai is a small place, but essentially you have three options: On the beach, in the city or in the desert.

They all have their benefits and it really depends what you want from your holiday.

Of course there are the landmark hotels like the self-proclaimed 7 star Burj Al Arab and the Armani Hotel in the Burj Khalifa to consider. And in a city with so many glamorous hotels, no list would ever be complete, but these are some of my favourites for the best in luxury, service and comfort.

Grosvenor House

This must be one of the most self-contained and luxurious city sanctuaries in the center of Dubai Marina. Grosvenor House also has Michelin-starred contemporary Indian dining along with celebrity chef Gary Rhodes’ award-winning Rhodes Mezzanine restaurant.

One & Only Royal Mirage

Spread over sixty acres with beautiful landscaped gardens, large outdoor swimming pools and lovely beaches, the One&Only Royal Mirage is one of the most low-key, elegant hotels in Dubai. Its Beach Bar & Grill restaurant and Jetty Lounge are bar are two of my favourite venues in the whole city.

Royal Mirage One & Only luxury beach hotel Dubai UAE

Park Hyatt

With its beautiful waterfront setting on the Deira side of the creek, adjacent to the Dubai Creek Golf Club and the yacht club, the Park Hyatt’s a haven. It is a bit further away from the city’s nightlife, restaurants, and shopping, but it’s close to the real old Dubai.

Desert Palm

One of Dubai’s most stylish boutique hotels, Desert Palm is situated on a 150-acre polo estate that feels a million miles away from the busy city. The hotel has a modern design, with a sophisticated interior that tastefully integrates an equestrian theme. My favourite part about this hotel though, is having lunch on the terrace when there’s a polo tournament on.

Al Maha

Not actually in Dubai, this is undoubtedly one of UAE’s signature resorts. Designed as a luxurious Bedouin encampment, the Al Maha Desert Resort combines the relaxed feeling of a tented desert safari lodge with the elegance of a five star luxury hotel. It’s only 45-minute drive from Dubai and guests can go on game-viewing drives every day.

The Best Places To Eat

Depending when you arrive, you’ll want to get out and get a taste of the city (literally). Fortunately, no matter what time of day you touch down, Dubai has plenty going on, so you’ll want to try out a couple of these places.


Lime Tree Café

The Lime Tree Café has become an institution with the ladies that (brunch and) lunch, known in Dubai as Jumeirah Janes. There are four branches but the Jumeirah one (right near the Jumeirah Mosque) is the best place to sit outside and indulge. They have a wide range of meals that are all top quality, and their carrot cake is legendary.

Jones The Grocer

A premium Australian gourmet food store, Jones the Grocer’s has a stylish, vibey café that is one of my favourite places to have brunch on the weekend. They have freshly baked breads and pastries, a European delicatessen, and a cheese counter so you can also take goodies home.

Boozy Brunch

Al Qasr at Madinat Jumeirah

This is a tried and trusted favourite in the Madinat Jumeirah complex. It’s the first brunch I ever had, and I think it’s still the best. It is also one of the most expensive brunches. But the range and quality of food and drinks is superb, with everything from sushi to pizza. The venue is stylish and great for visiting friends and family.

Al Qasr Hotel Jumeirah Dubai UAE

Saffron at Atlantis

It’s a bit Vegas meets cheesy cruise liner, which isn’t surprising because the Atlantis hotel at the top of Palm Jumeirah is ridiculously kitsch. But the food and drinks are superb. It’s very well priced and the DJ keeps things rocking all afternoon.

The Dubai Polo Club

This is a sophisticated, but very laid-back outdoor option next to the polo fields. You can even take your kids along, because there’s a play area and staff on hand to keep them entertained.

Blue Marlin Ibiza

On the road to Abu Dhabi, this Spanish owned restaurant and beach club embraces the spirit of Ibiza. Arrive at the venue at 1pm, then stay on to party around the pool or on the beach, with loads of bikini-clad women. When the sun sets, the music is cranked up, so you can spend the night partying.

Lunch & Dinner

Like hotels, Dubai has its fair share of stunning restaurants and no list would be complete, but these are some of my favourites lunch and dinner venues. So let’s start with the only two restaurants in Dubai that made it into the World’s Top 100 restaurants in 2012, Zuma and Le Petit Maison.


Zuma’s Dubai restaurant is superbly run and the food and atmosphere is fantastic. The dishes are brought to the table whenever they’re ready, which makes the experience feel more informal. On weekend nights, you can’t move in the bar as the Dj gets the place rocking. My top tip? Sit in the lounge upstairs, and try their business lunch menu. It’s far more relaxed and you’ll get to sample their menu without spending a fortune.

Zuma Japanese Restaurant DIFC Dubai UAE

Le Petit Maison

La Petite Maison which first opened in Nice in 1988, serves cuisine Nicoise from the old town of Nice. The brasserie can be expensive, and more than once the waiters have been accused of being pushy. But that doesn’t seem to have put people off and it has made a big impact in Dubai. The excellent menu must be one of Dubai’s largest, with around 28 starters, 24 main courses and 10 desserts.

Beach Bar & Grill

At One & Only Royal Mirage Hotel, this is one of my favourite beach restaurants. Like the hotel itself, it is low-key and sophisticated. Overlooking Palm Jumeirah, its outside deck is the perfect place to enjoy a long lunch or dinner. Many locals seem to forget about it for some reason, but it’s still one of the most romantic restaurants in Dubai. And it’s one of the few venues where you can actually dine by candlelight right on the beach.

Aprons & Hammers

The reason I love Aprons & Hammers is not only because it’s still unique in Dubai, but because it is the most casual and relaxed venue with incredible seafood. The restaurant itself is built on a renovated dhow that’s moored at the end of a pier at Mina Seyahi. The food is delicious and the prices, extremely reasonable. Book a table on the upper deck.


Pierchic is another restaurant that has one of the most romantic settings in Dubai. Styled as a wooden Emirati home, it is stylish and modern inside. Take a romantic walk down the very long pier and sit outside on the deck.

Pier Chic romantic restaurant Al Qasr hotel Dubai UAE


Okku is one of Dubai’s best places for contemporary, upscale Japanese cuisine (along with Zuma and Nobu). The dining area is split into the main area and private dining booths on a mezzanine level. After dinner, you can join the party as the resident DJ gets going later on.


Around the corner from Zuma and Le Petit Maison, Roberto’s is a relatively new kid on the DIFC block. It has a main dining room, Il Ristorante, the buzzing lounge, Il Salotto, and an open air terrace, La Terrazza. It’s a smart place, but has that casual, friendly Italian vibe

Table 9 by Nick & Scott

When Gordon Ramsey closed down Verre, in the Hilton on Dubai creek, two of his chefs Nick Alvis and Scott Price, set out on their own. Table 9 is less formal and the menu is made up of “smaller” and “larger” plates that gives you the freedom to create your own bespoke dining experience.

The awards have been coming thick and fast, and along with Middle East chef of the year accolades.

Where To Catch The Sunset (And Drink Afterwards)

Tips: As a general rule, only restaurants attached to hotels can serve alcohol. Also make sure you wear closed shoes after 6pm. Every city has its quirks, so no matter how fancy or expensive your sandals are, you’re not getting into most bars or clubs. With that out the way:

Jetty Lounge

In the One & Only Royal Mirage, and a short walk from the Beach Bar & Grill, Jetty Lounge is like a chic European lounge cum beachside bar. It attracts a glam crowd, but it’s still laid back with sophisticated chill out lounge music to keep you company. The only downside is that they don’t have a proper restaurant and their snack platters aren’t anything to write home about.

Jetty Lounge beach bar One & Only Royal Mirage hotel Dubai UAE


The 360° bar is set on a circular platform at the end of a very long pier off the Jumeirah Beach Hotel. And yes, the rooftop bar does have an incredible 360-degree view from the Jumeirah Palm on one side round to Port Rashid on the other. You can chill out on one the many lounge chairs that run round the venue.


At.mosphere is on the 122nd floor of the world’s tallest building, Burj Khalifa, this is the world’s highest restaurant. (Only two levels below the observation deck, and far more comfortable). So what better place to watch the sun set over the Arabian Gulf?

The Clubs

Over the years, the late night party scene has grown dramatically and although much of Dubai (thankfully for this old coot) centers around relaxed lounge and cocktail bars, there are a few clubs where you can dance all night. They range from the laid back, to the ridiculously expensive and pretentious.

Tip: Some of you might like to know that Tuesday is ladies night everywhere in Dubai.


This Polynesian themed club is in the basement of the Jumeirah Beach Hotel. But Mahiki is not nearly as tacky as it might sound. Laid back it may be, but it’s a stylish, cosy venue with a lounge area, and a dance floor that gets very busy. It’s probably not the best place if you’re claustrophobic though.

Armani Prive

Part of the designer Armani hotel in the Burj Khalifa, Armani Prive on the ground floor is the haunt of the glamorous VIP set. It is divided into an outdoor veranda, a dance floor backed by a bar and semi-circular VIP booths that offer bottle service. (I really enjoy this area, it’s slick and stylish, but it is expensive).

VIP Room

Recently opened at the brand new JW Marriott Marquis in Business Bay, the VIP Room is the new kid in town. With sister clubs in Paris, St Tropez, Monaco and Cannes, the owners have brought a bit of French opulence to Dubai, and it’s already very popular.

Cavalli Club

The Cavalli Cub was inspired by, and launched in collaboration with, celebrated designer Roberto Cavalli. It is one of the most expensive nightclubs ever built. It cost about $30-million. Yes it’s gaudy and excessive, but it’s also extremely popular with local socialites, sheiks and extremely well dressed tourists.

Cavalli glamorous nightclub Dubai UAE

Cirque du Soir

London’s most infamous celebrity hangout, has a Dubai venue. Cirque du Soir took over the old 400 Club (very popular with the moneyed Lebanese crowd) and re-opened with this circus-themed club. Expect circus folk; burlesque dancers on podiums, and jugglers serving tables. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.


Ok, so partying isn’t the only thing you came here for, so what are the big attractions and what’s worth seeing?

Burj Khalifa

Burj Khalifa is the world’s tallest building. What other reason do you need?

Rising 828 metres (2,716.5 feet) and more than 160 stories into the sky, the architectural masterpiece (it really is beautiful) houses the Armani Hotel and residences and sits alongside Dubai Mall and the Dubai Fountain.

At The Top is Burj Khalifa’s observation deck 124 levels up, and the 57 superfast elevators, take only two minutes to reach the top. You can buy tickets at the lower ground floor reception area in Dubai Mall but DONT buy a last minute tickets, it is about four times more expensive. Rather buy online beforehand.

Better yet, head only two levels below to At.mosphere, naturally the world’s highest restaurant and bar. There’s a minimum spend per person, but it is much more comfortable and more of an experience to look down at the world below with cocktail in hand.

Burj Khalifa world's tallest building Dubai UAE


A short walk from the Al-Fahidi Fort and Dubai Museum is one of the oldest heritage sites and traditional Emirati neighbourhoods in Dubai. The tiny Bastakiya quarter was established at the end of the 19th century by wealthy textile and pearl traders from Bastak, Iran.

It was painstakingly renovated by the government and it’s narrow alleyways and traditional houses with tall wind-towers gives you an interesting glimpse of old Dubai. Shops, galleries, and charming restaurants now line the alleyways, and you can also take a look at the Bastakiya Mosque and Textile Souq nearby. Then hop on an abra (old wooden water taxi), and cross over to Deira to visit the Gold Souk and Spice Souk. It makes for a very interesting few hours in real old Dubai.

Dubai Museum

The Dubai Museum is situated in the Al-Fahidi Fort next to Bastakiya. The fort, built around 1787, is considered the city’s oldest building and was once the seat of government and residence of Dubai’s rulers.

The museum itself is small, but surprisingly slick and informative. Along with showcasing Dubai’s incredible growth from tiny trading port, to cosmopolitan city, they have a few dioramas that recreate Old Dubai, giving you an insight into a pre-oil Dubai.

The Souks

The open-air markets or souks lining the creek near the dhow port are a living museum of Dubai’s trading history, and it’s possible to see them all in a few hours. (The evening is the most lively and exciting time to visit by the way).

If you combine your trip with a visit to Bastakiya and the Dubai Museum, you can start off at the textile souk nearby. Then catch an abra, (wooden water taxi), across the creek to the small spice souk next to the Old Baniyas Road abra station. It’s an amazing assault on the senses. Then head further into the wood-covered gold souk, where you can try some good-natured haggling for your jewellery. The creek in Bur Dubai and Deira is usually open 09:00 to 22:00.

Gold Souk old city Dubai Creek Dubai UAE

Jumeirah Mosque

The Jumeirah Mosque is the only mosque in Dubai that is open to the public and allows men and women who are not Muslim inside.

They work together with the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding and their “Open Doors, Open Minds” programme, hosts tours of the Jumeirah Mosque. You don’t need a reservation but dress modestly and arrive at the main entrance by 9.45am. Each tour lasts about 75 minutes.

Madinat Jumeirah

Styled to resemble an ancient Arabian citadel, Madinat Jumeirah is a rambling development on the coast that houses two grand boutique hotels. The adjoining souk is very popular. It’s  more of an air conditioned Arabian themed mall, packed with specially selected shops, restaurants and bars. Head right through and sit at a restaurant outside on the waterways.

Palm Jumeirah

This man-made island really is an incredible engineering feat. There isn’t really anything specific to see, but take a drive (or metro ride) to the Atlantis hotel, or one of the other hotels, just to get a sense of the scale of the project. There are a number of places you can stop off at for a drink or a bite to eat. Otherwise hire a yacht and sail all the way around it.

Palm Jumeirah island world's biggest man made island Dubai UAE

Shop ‘Till You Drop

If you love shopping, you’re in the right city, but you probably already knew that.


Dubai Mall

The world’s biggest mall. It is filled with luxury stores from every corner of the globe and includes a fashion avenue, Galleries Lafayette and Bloomingdales.

Step outside the mall to see Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building in all its glory. Cross the bridge to Souk Al Bahar and book a table on the balcony at a Mango Tree or Rivington Grill to watch the spectacular musical fountain show.

Mall of The Emirates

Personally this is still my favourite mall. It’s cosy, just big enough not to feel overwhelmed and it has Harvey Nichols and the Dubai ski slope attached to it. What’s not to love?


This mall is a favourite with locals (although the gridlocked traffic in the area tends to deter tourists). It has all the high-end stores you’d expect, including Chanel, Hermès, Christian Dior, and the only Saks Fifth Avenue in Dubai.

The Boulevard at Jumeirah Emirates Towers

This small exclusive mall has everything the discerning shopper needs. You’ll find a wide range of fashion outlets, including Boutique 1, the Middle East’s answer to Bloomingdale’s.

Gold & Diamonds

The malls do of course have dozens of high-end jewellery stores, but if you’d like to haggle for better prices on your gold, diamonds and precious stones, you’ll want to head to the Gold Souk on the creek or the Gold & Diamond Park.

The Gold Souk is fun to walk through and has more than 300 stalls of gold and jewellery where you can try your hand at haggling. They also have platinum, diamonds and occasionally silver, and the government keeps tight control over the quality of all the merchandise, so don’t worry, you can’t get ripped off.

Your best (though less atmospheric) bet however, is The Gold and Diamond Park near the Mall of the Emirates. It’s a far more comfortable air-conditioned experience, without the city chaos. It has plenty of stores and you’re more likely to find exactly what you want, or have it custom-made for an even lower price.

Shop around and don’t be scared to haggle. Just remember to start 50% less, work your way up from there and have plenty of stamina. The trick is to try wear the other person down.

Middle East Art

The art scene is definitely on the up in the region and there are two main areas in Dubai that have become hubs for art galleries.

Ayyam Middle East Art Gallery DIFC Dubai UAE

Al Quoz

This district of warehouses and small factories just off Sheikh Zayed Road offers galleries large industrial spaces and cheap rent, so it’s no wonder they’ve set up here. It’s not a place you can really walk around, except Alserkal Avenue, where some of the city’s most cutting-edge galleries are located, and specialise in work by emerging Iranian, Pakistani, Indian, and Arab talent. These galleries are well worth the effort:

Ayyam Gallery

Carbon 12

The Third Line

The Jam Jar


Dubai International Finance Centre (DIFC)

This large modern complex is home to the money traders of Dubai. Its annex is filled with high-end retail stores, restaurants (including Zuma and Le Petit Maison) and most of the city’s major art galleries. Unlike Al Quoz, this is a fantastic area to stroll from gallery to gallery and then stop off for lunch or dinner.  Gulf Art Guide has listings of all the galleries, and everything you need to know.

Play Outdoors

So you’re sick of shopping, or you’re just trying to avoid it all together? Ok, well there’s plenty else to do. There are a few big operators that handle most outdoor activities, so you won’t have a problem

Ski Dubai

OK, this is actually indoors (but it’s outdoors in other countries so it counts), and yes it is a weird concept for the desert, but it’s also a lot of fun and a welcome respite from the heat. Ski Dubai, has 5 runs that vary in difficulty, height and gradient, the longest run being 400 meters with a fall of over 60 meters. You can try the world’s first indoor black run or, maybe learn to ski first, on the gentle beginner slopes. There’s a freestyle zone for snowboarders and a 3000 square meter Snow Park, which is the largest indoor one in the world.

Indoor snow ski slope Mall of the Emirates Dubai UAE

Dune Bashing

Desert safaris are a lot of fun. Even jaded locals who have done it with every visiting friend and family member will tell you it’s worth doing more than once. A driver will pick you up from your hotel, late afternoon, in 4×4 and drive you out to the desert where you’ll watch the sun set. Then you’ll join a convoy of other vehicles, and after you’re strapped in, you’ll race at high speed across the dunes. Afterwards you’ll head to a faux-Bedouin tented camp where you can have dinner, ride a camel, and try shisha smoking. This really isn’t the highlight of the trip, because it’s all a bit cheesy and staged, so I would opt for a trip with the dune bashing only.

Two well known operators are Arabian Adventures and Arabia Horizons.

Helicopter Flip  

Dubai is a city that’s literally sprung from the desert, and is an amazing sight from above. There are a few operators around like, Heli Dubai, Dreamdays and Arabia Horizons.

Or if helicopters aren’t your thing you could always try a seaplane.

Golf Courses

Surprisingly for a desert city, Dubai has its fair share of world-class golf courses.

The Yas Links golf course was voted one of Golf World’s top 100 courses in 2012, so it’s a good place to start.

Emirates Golf Club is home to the Desert Classic (part of the PGA European Tour).

The Montgomerie is a par 72 and has the world’s biggest green.

Dubai Creek Golf Club has stunning views and runs alongside the luxury Park Hyatt.

In Arabian Ranches, the 247-acre Desert Course is the longest in the city.

And the Al Badia course in Festival City has a terrace restaurant with panoramic views over the 18-hole course and Dubai Creek.

Try and book before you even arrive in Dubai if possible. Courses give priority to members, and it’s often impossible to get a place over the weekend. Some also have minimum handicap requirements. You can find out more at Dubai Golf.


If you’re in town during polo season, the two top places to watch it are the Dubai Polo Club and at Desert Palm Resort. They are an easy 15-20 minute drive, heading towards the desert.

At Dubai Polo Club, you can take your own picnic or choose from one of their Polo Picnic Boxes. Or book a table on the clubhouse terrace for brunch whilst watching a game.

Gold Cup Horse Polo Match Dubai Polo Club UAE

At Desert Palm, you can also book a table on their terrace and tuck into good food while you watch a game.

If there aren’t any tournaments on, you can usually still spot horses being exercised and players practicing in the late afternoon.


With Skydive Dubai, you can choose whether you’d like to jump out of a plane over the desert or over the ocean, high above Palm Jumeirah in the heart of Dubai. If it’s your first time, do a tandem jump with an instructor.

Sailing & Deep Sea Fishing

The sun shines 360 days a year and the water is almost always calm, so Dubai is the perfect place to charter a boat for a couple of hours partying or fishing, or even a whole day out. This is something we do more often than we probably should and it’s always great. Try Xclusive Yachts or Dubai Ultimate Charter.

If you don’t mind heading out of Dubai, take a trip up the coast to Mussandam, Oman for a day of snorkeling.

Soak Up The Sun

If you’ve done enough running around, or don’t actually feel like doing any and you just want to lie on the beach, Dubai is a good place to do it. If you’re not staying at a beach hotel, I recommend a day or three at a beach club.

Beach Clubs

There are a couple of public beaches left, like Umm Suqeim, but beach clubs are very popular in Dubai and most carry a hefty annual fee. Fortunately, most of the clubs allow day visitors. You’ll still pay of course, but it’s a very comfortable way to spend the afternoon. These are my favourites and are a good place to start.

One&Only Royal Mirage

If you’re not staying at the hotel, you can buy day passes for the pool and beach facilities at Royal Mirage. There’s also a range of watersports on offer, including waterskiing and wakeboarding.

Nasimi Beach

More famous for its Sandance parties, Nasimi Beach at Atlantis hotel lets you use their beach facilities if you eat lunch at their al fresco restaurant. If there’s a Sandance event on, stay after sunset and party.

Al Shalal Beach Club

Al Shalal on Palm Jumeirah is aiming to be the city’s most personalised boutique beach club. It has a great infinity pool and its Mediterranean restaurant, Gusto, is always on standby if you’re feeling peckish.

Pamper Yourself

Dubai boasts some of the most spectacular spas in the world, and every top hotel has one, so you’ll have no trouble unwinding. Otherwise, you can’t go wrong with these spas.

Amara Day Spa at Park Hyatt

One of Dubai’s most luxurious spas at the five star Park Hyatt hotel on the creek. They offer indulgent Givenchy beauty treatments and a popular Oriental hammam.

Park Hyatt Hotel Luxury Spa Dubai Creek UAE

Talise Spa at Madinat Jumeirah

In the luxurious Madinat Jumeirah resort, the Talise Spa offers a wide range of beauty and spa treatments including volcanic stone baths and yoga lessons.

The Health & Beauty Institute

 The One&Only Royal Mirage resort’s beautiful spa center, situated in the elegant entrance courtyard of the resort’s Beach Residence & Spa.

What’s On This Month

It doesn’t matter when you decide to travel to Dubai, you’ll have an amazing time. Yes, you may have to skip some things, but you’ll find there’s always something interesting, and more than enough, going on.  So as a final word, all I’ll say is hop on a plane and if you want to know what’s on while you’re here, take a look when you land.



Photo of Burj Khalifa copyright and Zuma copyright Jumeirah Palm copyright Nakheel. Polo copyright Royal Mirage via Hyatt, Al Qasr and Al Maha copyright of each respective hotel. 

A Day Out In Lebanon With Byblos, Brando and Bab el Mina

The World’s Oldest Inhabited Town

If history is your thing (even if it isn’t actually), you should take a day trip from Beirut up the coast to Byblos. It is a UNESCO World Heritage city believed to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited towns in the world (occupied first between 8800 and 7000 BC). It’s less than an hour’s drive north and it makes a nice change from the big city.

A group of us had flown in to Beirut for a long weekend, and we roped in a friend’s uncle to drive us up there for the day. Well actually he insisted, because he would charge us much less for his van. So we all piled in and headed out. (You can rent a car, or get a taxi to take you there if you don’t have a friend in town).

Byblos Souk Stores UNESCO World Heritage site Lebanon

Byblos used to be popular amongst the rich and famous back in the 1960’s and 70’s, with the likes of Marlon Brando and Frank Sinatra sailing into the little harbor for some Mediterranean fun in the sun. But that all ended when the civil war started and scared them all away. These days it’s become popular again with the younger crowd who head out to the beach clubs and restaurants on weekends.

The Souk And The Ruins

We parked at the quaint little fishing harbor and walked up the cobbled streets. We spent about an hour walking through the beautifully restored souk in the historical quarter and I was surprised to find a large stone church right next door to a blue-domed mosque. We happened to be there around prayer time, and the mosque was filled, with worshippers spilling outside into the alleyway.

Byblos Souk alleyway UNESCO World Heritage site Lebanon

We headed off to the old Phoenician, Roman and Crusader ruins, next to the souk. It’s a fairly large area, with crumbling ruins that house a very modern museum, filled with ancient artifacts. We strolled around the museum, then climbed the walls for a great view over the ruins, harbor and the coastline back towards Beirut.

Byblos historical ruins UNESCO World Heritage Site Lebanon

Fortunately, Byblos is famous for its seafood restaurants, and seeing as I love seafood, I was very happy to walk back down to the picturesque harbor, to get out of the sun and reward myself with a long lazy lunch.

Harbour Side Eating

Although Uncle, as we all called him, insisted on taking us somewhere cheaper to eat, we all decided we wanted to stay in the harbour because it was so charming. There are two main places to worth eating at. The very popular Bab el mina , or the older, legendary Chez Pepe right next door. We decided to go with history, and headed to Pepe’s.

Byblos UNESCO world heritage site quaint harbour Lebanon

It’s perfectly situated, built into the rocks overlooking all the yachts, and thanks to its colourful founder, has become quite the institution. The walls inside and out are covered with photographs of the founder and all his famous guests over the decades, when Lebanon had its heyday.

Chez Pepe seafood Restaurant Byblos harbour Lebanon

We spent an awesome afternoon gorging on seafood platters and drinking bottles of chilled Lebanese wine. (Yes they make wine, and some of it is pretty good). So by the time we eventually headed home, thankful for Uncle’s driving, we were all singing merrily. We arrived back in Beirut in time for sundowners.

Dune Bashing In The Dubai Desert

If there’s one activity that you have to do on a trip to the Middle East it’s dune bashing. Whatever you do, make sure you join a tour for an evening of crazy high-speed driving across the dunes.

Sunset In The Desert

A driver from Desert Safari picked us up mid-afternoon from home which was super convenient. (There are plenty of tour operators to choose from, and they will all pick you up from your hotel. We hopped in the chunky 4×4, picked up a few more people and then headed out to the desert. We drove in a little way onto the top of a dune and all hopped out to watch the sun set which was magical. The desert always looks best at sunrise or sunset.

Dune Bashing Dubai UAE sunset trail of 4x4 vehicles

Then we all piled back in and headed over to join a convoy of other 4x4s that had now congregated in the dunes. I was actually really surprised to see how many other vehicles were out there, but I guess business is good.

The vehicles all gather in one main area and after everyone is strapped into their seats, the drivers then follow each other at high speed across the top of sand dunes, like a really long trail of crazed desert ants. And when I say high speed I mean it.

High Speed Thrills

I have to admit, it scared the hell out of me at times, but I was strapped in really tight and I trusted (and kinda prayed) the drivers knew what they were doing. One minute you were racing down a dune and the next you’d look out the window and there would be a sheer drop off. We did see one or two cars that had slid off a dune and got stuck or had a puncture. Our driver stopped to help out and then we were off again.

I don’t recommend dune bashing for squeamish people or those with weak hearts, but the rest of you will love it. Honestly, even with the scary bits, I really wished it had lasted much longer.

Dune Bashing Dubai 4x4 desert UAE

Desert Camp

When it all ended were driven to a purpose built kitsch Bedouin style village. With adrenaline still pumping, they seat you at low tables and fed dinner, while you watch a belly dancing show, and you can buy alcohol if you feel like you really need a drink.

In the camp there are all sorts of touristy things to do. You can try smoking shisha, which I did without much luck, and a few fits of coughing, because I don’t normally smoke. You can get henna painting, pose with a falcon and ride a camel. It’s typical tourist fare and I could’ve skipped it to be honest. I think the dune bashing is the highlight and the reason to go.

Dune bashing desert Dubai sunset over dunes

Some people did seem to love it and the kids were having a great time. So if you don’t mind a kitsch, touristy evening, go for it, but I would get the deal that excludes it and head back to the city before it gets too late. Either way, it’s a great afternoon out. I loved it and it’s the kind of thing I offer to do again whenever friends come to visit.

Tour Operators

You can book a trip through one of these well-known tour operators, Arabian Adventures, Desert Safari DubaiDesert Rangers, Oasis Palm Tours or Day Out Dubai.





Beirut Isn’t A War Zone It’s A Party Zone

Beirut is a fascinating city full of contradictions where Middle East meets west. You’ll find dilapidated apartment blocks sit alongside a gentrified CBD and other areas that look like they were bombed last month. It’s a place where French and Arab worlds have combined to create a unique atmosphere. There’s nothing else quite like it.

I had been trying to get to Beirut for a while, but I travel on a South African passport that isn’t always the easiest, and they were giving us a hard time about visas. So when I heard there was a ‘visa holiday’ to attract more tourists over summer, I was on the first plane and I have to say, I had an incredible time.

Beirut Lebanon city street CBD downtown

It’s a real, lived in city with all the wrinkles that show it’s had a hard life. But it’s also a city that has never given up. The Lebanese are passionate, loud, gregarious and extremely hospitable, and they have the attitude that they might not be here tomorrow, so they live life that way. Which is where all the partying comes in.

It can be a big, wild, crazy place and there still aren’t very many western tourists flying in, (because I think most still think it’s a warzone) so I thought I’d give you a guide to help you feel more comfortable, get the most out of the city, and have the best time you possibly can.

At the Airport

CAUTION: If you have a passport stamp from Israel, you won’t be allowed into the country. Even if you don’t and you’ve been there, don’t tell the guy at customs that because he won’t let you in.

Once you’re through customs, organise a hotel transfer, the traffic and quality of driving are not the best and that way you’ll also avoid being overcharged.

Where you should stay

Beirut is not like Dubai when it comes to choice, but there are a few luxurious places that will keep you in comfort, and these are the best of those.

Chain Hotels

Four Seasons – Rising high above the Beirut Marina, it has a rooftop pool with 360° views of sea, mountains and city.

Intercontinental Le Vendome – This intimate hotel is on Beirut’s Corniche, overlooking the ocean.

Independent Hotels

Albergo Under 5 minutes walk from trendy Mono Street in Beirut’s Achrafieh district.

Le Gray In the exclusive, rebuilt Beirut Central District, with 360-degree views over sea, city and mountains.

Le Patio Boutique Hotel – A five star hotel in Beirut’s business district of Solidère.

Le Gray luxury boutique hotel Beirut Lebanon


There aren’t many sites in Beirut itself, (most of Lebanon’s beauty is out in the country), but there are a few things you should do to soak up the atmosphere before you start partying (and forget to stop). Walk along the Corniche, especially at sunrise or sunset and head for Zaitunay Bay.

Hamra Street

Home to the American University of Beirut, this student area is full of cafes, bars and restaurants and has a gritty, authentic feel about it.


This area has been restored to its former glory. You’ll find Beirut Souks there, a beautifully designed open-air style mall as well as the popular Uruguay Street, filled with restaurants and bars.

Sundowners, Drinks and Dinner

Firstly, know the Lebanese like to eat late and they like to eat a lot, so prepare yourself, preferably by snacking over sunset cocktails at: ]

My Waterfront at Zaitunay Bay

Right in the heart of Zaituna Bay, the stylish marina off the corniche, mywaterfront is open for brunch, lunch and dinner. It’s a sophisticated venue with a large outside terrace with great views of Beirut’s skyline and the sea.
Zaitunay Bay My Waterfront sundowners luxury yacht marina Beirut Lebanon

If you can drag yourself away from the stunning setting, try some watering holes in other suburbs:


With it’s homey feel, Clé’s is a popular, laid-back venue to grab a snack and a cold beer and spend some time in their garden, or next to the fireplace in winter.


This is an area that really comes alive at night. It is filled with hole-in-the-wall bars and live music venues.

Eat At: Bread (for two or three people) or Centrale (for bigger groups).

Drink At Angry Monkey, Gem (sit outside) and Alcazar are all popular, but there are plenty of other places to explore.

Live music band nightlife Gemmayze Beirut Lebanon


Uruguay Street is unique because it’s a European style pedestrian street situated right behind the Samir Kassir Square. It’s full of restaurants and bars like Cassis and Tinto Tapas Bar that offer indoor and outdoor seating that bring more life to the area.

The Rooftop Scene

Crazy traffic, noise and pollution are the curse of most cities, so the Lebanese simply rise above it and take to the rooftops to eat and party.

Bars & Restaurants

There are a few stunning rooftop venues where you can get something decent to eat and stay around for music and a party. Just be aware that you will need to book and the doormen aren’t very friendly if you don’t have a reservation.

Fly Bar

A great place for cocktails and conversation overlooking the city.

Le Capitole

Across the street from the Fly Bar, this indoor / outdoor set-up is perfect for a night out. It’s for a slightly older, sophisticated crowd (25+ only).

The Roof

Located on the Four Season hotel’s 26th floor at the rooftop pool, it claims the title of the highest lounge with wraparound views of Beirut’s downtown skyline, mountains and the Mediterranean Sea

C Lounge 

On the 6th floor of the Bay View Hotel. Knock back cocktails while taking in the view of Beirut.

The Clubs

Lebanon has the biggest, brashest super clubs in the region. But do yourself a favour and call ahead to get on the guest list by telling them you’re flying in from overseas. They are usually more accommodating that way, and you don’t want to queue for hours or be turned away at the door.

Sky Bar glamorous rooftop club Beirut Lebanon

Sky Bar

Arguably the most famous and consistently one of the most popular of all clubs in Beirut. Voted best bar in the world in 2008, Sky Bar is a posh multi-level rooftop club attracts all of Beirut’s glitterati with its breathtaking ocean and mountain views.

Look out for the curious Lebanese party trick of big spenders buying giant bottles of champagne or vodka, delivered by a train of staff with giant sparklers. It’s a wild, loud, great night out.

Pier 7

It’s famous for the unrivaled size of its dance space and their ability to lure top-notch hip-hop and pop acts like Ke$ha and Flo-Rida.


Fairly new to the scene, MAD has been described as the ‘indoor version’ of White, another staple club located on a rooftop in downtown Beirut.


Recently relocated to Sea Side Road overlooking the coast, this rooftop club is another institution in Beirut. The open-air restaurant lounge operates exclusively from May to October.

White luxury nightclub Beirut Lebanon


One of Beirut’s legendary clubs. Located in a part of the city that was a refugee camp during the civil war, and set in what looks like an old bomb shelter, it has an incredible retractable roof that opens up to the stars. It’s very popular as a late night spot, but be prepared because it can get very crowded and loud.

Hitting The Beach Clubs

The Lebanese love the beach. No really, they LOVE the beach. Nights are for partying and days are for recovering on the beach (often drinking more). But they don’t just wander down to any old beach and dive into the ocean. No, beach clubs are where you have to go and they range from very laid back, to pricy and pretentious. These are some of the most popular places to sun yourself.

Pierre & Friends (Batroun)

A very laid-back vibe. Its hidden entrance leads to a downstairs cave where you’ll find a wooden bar, couches, wooden decor and a popular stretch of beach.

Edde Sands (Byblos)

Edde Sands has loads of everything: beach, infinity pools, restaurants, bars, shops, private cabanas and a VIP pool, all set in tropical, well-manicured grounds. This is a place for designer bikinis, stilettos and posers.

Riviera Beach Lounge (Beirut)

Riviera is affectionately known as ‘silicone beach’ to the locals so best dress the part. If you don’t want to head out of Beirut then Riviera’s summer beach parties will keep you busy.

Riviera Beach Club Beirut Lebanon

Lazy B

Labelled as an eco-friendly beach, this quiet, low-key getaway will make you feel like you’re on an island.

IRIS Beach Club (Damour)

This is an exclusive resort for the well-heeled and glamorous. Designer heels time again.

Iris Beach Club Beirut Lebanon

The Final Word

If your impression of Beirut isn’t forever altered after your trip, you’ve done something wrong. I guarantee you’ll head home with a happy heart (and a hangover) and when you’re brave enough to face it all again, you’ll go rushing back.


Some photos courtesy of Le Gray, Zaitunay Bay,,